18th December - John Gaskins reports a few more new problems...
Warton Upper
This could be mistaken fot a route...
V8ish - Start as for "The Original Abomination" to stand on the break from there climb the blank looking yet featured wall to the right of the arete. The crux is at the top!!
Warton Pinnacle
In the jumble of boulders right of Stile Buttress, and below the path as it cuts through the escarpment, is an obvious clean slightly overhanging wall.
V7/8 Climb this wall from a sit start, without either arete. Although it sounds eliminate it is the obvious challenge of the block.
V2 From a sit start climb the right hand arete into the top of the previous problem.
Below the pinnacle itself is an obvious low roof.
V7 Start in the roof using a hold on the 'ramp' and one in the roof, reach out to the line of holds on the lip and follow these left then rock onto the lip and up.
Trowbarrow Boulder
V7 The project, problem number 3, on the South Face.
V8 (maybe, it was a bit damp so...) From a sit start at the left end of the ramp (on the West Face) climb straight up into problem 7.
Nice one John, although having showed Project 3 on the Trowbarrow boulder to a number of strong climbers and none of them doing it I would take V7 with a pinch of salt, especially from a man who has climbed V15! Ha ha.
 
8th December - John Gaskins reports he has climbed the awesome slab/wall project right of "Grimley Fiendish" at Thorn Crag. This amazing project has been tried by a few likley candidates but has at last succumbed to the mighty Gaskins at a grade of V9/10...good work that man!! Oh and sorry Neil K.
 
25th November - A welcome cold snap over the previous weekend allowed some of north Lakes boys an excuse for an excursion to the increasingly popular bouldering of St.Bees Head. As well as repeating many of the test pieces Dan Varien added a new problem at the Fishermans Steps area...
Tender Hooks (V8/+) Climbs the line inbetween Tims Crack and The Fishermans Dyno. Dan explains, "Follow from crimp in a seam for your left hand and a gaston for the right to a slappy heel hook with the left foot, then to a slot on the slab, up to a crimp with the right and the break at half height, now finish in highball style up the wall above".
DAMAGED KENTMERE CLASSIC - On an unfortunate note the modern classic "Paradigm" (V7) at the Garburn Pass boulder has had its crucial right-hand starting hold broken. To be fair the hold was a little fragile but seemed to have taken a number of ascents without showing the strain. The problem has yet to be re-ascended but will be much harder and I suspect not as good.

12th November - On a recent excursion from North Wales Si Panton and Ray Wood were enjoying a little tour of Thorn Crags delights, when Simon noticed an obvious unclimbed little traverse on the uphill side of the lowest block at the Sea View Boulders. In preperation for a photo shoot on harder ground, John Gaskins quickly whipped along said traverse commenting "Its quite good, but a bit low to the ground", V3ish no name as yet.
 
3rd November - With the weather craping out a bit towards the end of October, the Lakes action seems to have slowed down a bit of late. That said old skool campaigner Tom Walkington has been busy cleaning up a solid 4m high limestone wall. This is situated on the path which forks left from the swing gate on the major path into Trowbarrow quarry (from the lay-by on Storrs Lane). Now before you all pull on your duvets and vacate the cellar, despite being a nice piece of rock this is very much an easy low-end venue as it is slabby and riddled with holds. That said it would be ideal for beginners and kids as there are loads of good easy up problems and traverses as well as limitless eliminates all with excellent landings.
Picture - John Gaskins on his new problem at Woodwell O`ert Road
"At The Heart Of It All" V14...

22nd October - The recent good weather has led to a few more additions to the new Tilberthwaite boulders... The project listed on the topo left of "Booze Baron". Starting at the base of the highball crack (two big pockets) moving right and up on the pockets and edges into the groove was climbed by Greg Chapman at around V8 and is exceptionally good. Greg also climbed the lip traverse listed as a project behind "Hades Lair" on the topo, at V3/4 although the demise of a hold on a later ascent may have upped the grade.
The huge "King Kobra" style niche still remains unclimbed and will be harder than first thought... any takers?
 
8th October - As the hippy dude on Rampage says "Another future problem no longer in the future"...That's the case with the two problems recorded in the previous news report, as they are two (out of three) of the problems listed by Neil Kershaw in his excellent South Lakes History article. And sticking with that theme John has decided to name the bulge/arete right of "Yatsufusa" at Thorn Crag - "Endangered Species" (V11). As for the central roof at Woodwell O'ert Road, that has been christened - "At The Heart of it All" (I pressume for obvious reasons) and on reflection John feels this problem is worthy of the V14 tag.
After concluding his report, and in the context of the future problems listed, John quipped "The final one will be most tricky". Holey smokes! That's got to be a contender for the years biggest understatement to date!
 
6th October - How does he keep doing it? John Gaskins has delivered once again with a trio of fine first ascents... At Woodwell O`ert Road John climbed the ramp line right of his original V9 crack problem (the Far left of Troll buttress) utilizing holds from the original problem no grade as yet. Even more impressive was his ascent of the roof left of "Walk By The Lilly Ponds" which is yet to be named but comes out at a whoping V13/14! This problem was dispatched relatively quickly with a few visits in-between his ultimate goal which resides at Ravens Tor (watch this space!!!). Still not impressed? Well John wasn`t done there, taking advantage of the week before going back to uni he casually nipped upto Thorn Crag and bagged the nails looking project sit start prow/bulge right of "Yatsufusa" at a relatively amenable V11! Not bad for a few weeks work...phew!!
 
3rd October - Well as Simon Panton recently stated "you can`t keep a good man down"! And that is definatly the case with Tim Carruthers who strapped on his hobnails and oxygen to visit the excellent new venue in Eskdale "The Universe Boulders" - Inccidently after exchanging a few emails with Tim, Greg Chapman who originally named the area (as he didn`t know it had a historical name of "The Sampson's Stones") has agreed to change the name back to its original title on the next updated topo (coming soon), although the names of the boulders will remain the same. - Now to Tims new additions, The Cosmos Boulder - Problem 2. Listed as a project on the current topo was climbed in a run up fashion (Thats what I like to hear!!) at V4 and has been christened "Houston, We Have A Problem". Tim also climbed the easy groove right of P10 at V1, and the "nice" groove to the left of P14 V0. On Boulder 1 we have a smart V1 up the wall left of P5, Then comes a smashing three star problem "Flambuoyancy Aid" V4 which starts with both hands on the arete right of P1 a heel on the shelf to the left, now traverse the lip of the boulder leftwards, "showing off as much as possible" and finish as for the next problem... "The Bends" V5, Sit start off the block at the end of the previous traverse. Keeping below the arete, span rightwards to a couple of crimps and slap for the lip. The Asteroid - The main event here was a more direct version of "Quasar" which keeps it completely idependent of P3 and adds a star. (Sit start) Left hand on the shelf, right on a sharp layaway, then slopers pinches, undercuts and a crimp lead to a good hold and the groove above, still around V7 "Fu**ing Fantastic" was Tims summing up of this problem. Finally After repeating most of the existing problems Tim climbed "Space Debris" V3 which starts at "The Drake Equation" into Pulsar and round the corner and up the slab (careful of the loose hold). Nice one Tim bon effort! Picture Below: Tim Carruthers on Flambouyancy Aid V4...

24th September - Tim Carruthers reports some "Groovy additions" to the Langstrath boulders... Continuing the theme of things that are hard to do (see Eat Yourself Whole), we have "Bonsai Your Cat" V6 which takes the leaning prow of the fallen block to the right of the Austria boulder. This is tricky but very good. Then to the right of the V7 HighBall Wall - which incidentally Tim now feels may be hard V6 - we have "Kop Out" V4, which is also scary.
 
17th September - A recent chat with Lakes guru Stephen Reid, left me with a useful tip... the Thirlmere boulders are now completely clear of the lake and climbable, check out Jim Arnolds excellent topo here.

8th September - Some Craig Y Longridge updates just in from Tony Mitchell...
"Gauntlet" sit start, from low using a side-pull and flat hold V8.
Variation left of "Gauntlet", using slopy hold just left of hold 15 on the topo, dyno to the top at V8+.
 
3rd September - Tim (powerhouse) Carruthers reports the following repeats from the Soloway Coast (OK its not the Lakes technically but hay, Tims from the Lakes!) He has repeated Paul Savage's sit start problem "Shrinking Violet" which gets V11, although Tim felt this may be a bit generous. He also bagged a quick ascent of the V9 "Tied up and Swallowed" at Thirlstane. Tim also mentioned he thought he had grabbed a sneaky 3rd ascent of "My Evil Twin" at Sandyhills but was later informed he had used an "illegal" sequence...buggar!
 
1st September - Martin Panton reports new boulders up the Rydal Valley...THIS INFORMATION HAS BEEN REMOVED AS ON VISITING THE AREA REPORTED WE DISCOVERED THE TWO 6 FOOT HIGH BOULDERS ARE NOT WORTH THE 15/20MIN WALK.
 
Also Neil Kershaw has gone one better than his excellent recent efforts and repeated "Cloning Technology" at Woodwell with the extended start (i.e. From The Beauty of Being Numb)... keep up the good work yoof!
 
25th August - Greg Chapman has just repeated Woodwells power stamina test piece Cloning Technology, with the extended start. John Gaskins's original problem (starting as for Closer) was recently repeated by local marathon boy Neil Kershaw. Never liking to be upstaged by his old sparing partner Greg set about working the extended version (from The Beauty of Being Numb) which was also climbed by John not long after grabbing the original line. Greg was getting close a month or so ago, put poor conditions put pay to a quick ascent. After a fair amount of link training at Woodwell O`ert Road(and a slightly cooler spell) Greg bagged the beast...Just!! This problem was originally graded V12/13 by John as he finished via the independently hard(V10)Screaming Slave Left Hand,where as Greg and Neil(being mere mortals)finished through the original Screaming Slave problem. Greg felt his beta warrented low end V12.
 
Greg in action reversing "Whats This For...!" before tackling the final difficulties Cloning Technology has to offer...

18th August - John Gaskins reports some new problems at the recently developed Valley of the Kings in Kentmere. Most of these are listed as projects on the Garburn Pass Boulders Topo see here
Boulder 4. Problem 4 - Traverse the boulder left to right V7/8.
Boulder 8. Problem 2 - Sit start V5/6.
Problem 4 - Sit start V4
Boulder 9. John traversed the lip from very low to the left rightwards at around V2 and also the slab (left to right) on the opposite side at V0.
John commented that many of these as with the other problems in the area, may become easier with cleaning and traffic.
 
17th August - An afternoons entertaining sport at Woodwell O`ert Road brought a few new additions to this already superb and established venue. On Cave Buttress Greg Chapman started as for John Gaskins's new line "Hybrid Moments" but instead of reversing "Angel Deelite" as for the original problem continued through "The Cricco Castelli Finish" to give smart little V8 link, this was quickly repeated by Neil kershaw.
30m right of The Cave Buttress is a higher section of rock, which after some cleaning presented two good new problems.
V6 - The right side of buttress is taken from sitting into a weird mantle move and through to the steep wall above, finish at the break. F.A. Neil Kershaw (see picture below)
V3/4 - Starting sitting at the left side of the buttress traverse an obvious crack rightwards to a good hold, now climb direct through the slight prow on sharp holds and finish at the break. F.A. Greg Chapman

18th August - John Gaskins reports some new problems at the recently developed Valley of the Kings in Kentmere. Most of these are listed as projects on the Garburn Pass Boulders Topo see here
Boulder 4. Problem 4 - Traverse the boulder left to right V7/8.
Boulder 8. Problem 2 - Sit start V5/6.
Problem 4 - Sit start V4
Boulder 9. John traversed the lip from very low to the left rightwards at around V2 and also the slab (left to right) on the opposite side at V0.
John commented that many of these as with the other problems in the area, may become easier with cleaning and traffic.
 
17th August - An afternoons entertaining sport at Woodwell O`ert Road brought a few new additions to this already superb and established venue. On Cave Buttress Greg Chapman started as for John Gaskins's new line "Hybrid Moments" but instead of reversing "Angel Deelite" as for the original problem continued through "The Cricco Castelli Finish" to give smart little V8 link, this was quickly repeated by Neil kershaw.
30m right of The Cave Buttress is a higher section of rock, which after some cleaning presented two good new problems.
V6 - The right side of buttress is taken from sitting into a weird mantle move and through to the steep wall above, finish at the break. F.A. Neil Kershaw (see picture below)
V3/4 - Starting sitting at the left side of the buttress traverse an obvious crack rightwards to a good hold, now climb direct through the slight prow on sharp holds and finish at the break. F.A. Greg Chapman

19th July 2003 - A small nugget of info... The proper sit start to Super Star DJ Tinpot Todd (from the back of the roof) was done on Saturday it improves the problem.
 
Adam Lincoln reports a new problem at Fairy Steps... From the jug on Aeon, (sit start) up wall then a long slap at the end about V7 "Took Ryan (Pascal) about 5 or 6 goes so it must be hard!"
 
12th July 2003 - Yet another visit to the amazing St. Bees Head from South Lakes team Tom Burns and Greg Chapman yielded an awesome new problem, "Clash of the Titans" takes the slopy left arete on the seaward face of boulder 2 and goes at around V7.
UPDATE 10th May 2004 - Further reasearch leads us to find Clash of the Titans was actually climbed by Ryan Dempsey around 5 years ago, although Ryan is happy with the name.
 
10th June 2003 - Neil Kershaw has just informed us that he has repeated John Gakins's power stamina fest "Hybrid Moments", and confirmed the grade at V11.
 
1st June 2003 - Early June saw more action in the Kentmere area with Greg Chapman developing the area opposite The Garburn Pass boulder. The Valley of the Kings as it is now known is a little esoteric in its nature but contains some excellent problems, including "Cwrast The Ragged" V5 a technical bulge and "Aequipedus" V9 the super hard crack line for more info or a topo put in a request here.
 
30th May 2003 - With little left for the man of steel to do (in the South Lakes) John Gaskins set to work extending Greg Chapmans excellent traverse "Blood Sugar Sex Magic" V9 at Woodwell O`ert Road. John started sitting at "Yes Minister", through "Soda" reversed The Flying Finish and Angel Deelite into BSSM... nice one John (V11) perhaps? John has named the link "Hybrid Moments"
 
25th May 2003 - Couple of updates at Trowbarrow for the boulderer who's done every thing in the South Lakes. Go and try the super direct version of Shallow Grave, sticking to the holds in the white streak above the starting cave, cool prob at around V8+. Also Greg Chapman climbed a problem direct up the blank looking wall 6m left of Shallow Grave, this problem may have been climbed in the past but is excellent none the less.
 
17th May 2003 - Neil Kershaw has just repeated the sustained power satamina fest "Cloning Technology" V12 at Woodwell. This awesome effort was even more impressive as the weather conditions were far from perfect, good effort youth!!
 
2nd April 2003 - Greg chapman has added a slightly elimnate yet very worth while problem at Heysham Head "Melt Down" (V6) starts sitting at the base of "Above the Royal Flake" and traverses the low breaks into a slopy shelf on the left of the crag along this and finish with a dyno to a jug at the far left.
 
March 30th 2003 - The end of March saw the completion of the development of the Garburn Pass boulder (a huge boulder located about a mile up the Garburn Pass Kentmere) with input from John Gaskins, Greg Chapman and Andy Butler. There are some superb steep crimpy problems on amazing mountain Ryolite. The Best problems include "Equipose" V8 the technical corner/prow of the boulder, "Paradigm" V7 a powerful and technical groove and "Phantasmagoria" V7 the superb wall problem. For an upto date topo see here