26th December -
Stealing the odd short day out over the last couple of weeks, Neil Kershaw has been easing his way back into it after a shoulder operation with a brace of new problems up at the permanently en-vogue Carrock Fell.
 
First was the development of the hillside above the Du-Al boulder. The achingly obvious "rocking block" roof perched in the trees went down to give "The Man They Couldn't Hang" V4 and some classic commitment above an atrocious landing. 100m directly up the hill is a large barrel of black gabbro just behind a previously climbed shattered block. Two punchy powerful sit-starts reside here; a crimpy V5 on the left and a slappy V7 on the right, and very worthwhile. 100m higher again is a pale flat craglet. So I guess the secret (?!) is out! Highball, bomber fine-grained gabbro above a perfect flat grassy landing, with a full-house of some of Carrocks greatest lines. Only two done so far; the easy line on the right "I Can See For Miles" V3 gives quality climbing, but for a bona-fide problem which would put in a serious bid for country-wide recognition look no further than the prow bounding the left end of this wall.
 
In the same breath this sharp wedge effortlessly rivals the bow of the QE2 for impressiveness and perfection of line, and Cindy Crawford for sensuous curves. Bear-hugging the bow from a dignified sitting position leads to the bulbous sloper at the lip, and the highball flow of the exhilarating high-heels top-out. Get to it and "Sing a Rainbow" V7 before it gets dirty, a lot of cleaning effort went into it! Check out this staged boxing day shot.

Further to this Neil investigated the blatant perched boulder on the hillside immediately upon leaving Mosedale. The clean flat wall gave "Misty Mountain Hop" V3, and the obvious hanging blocky bulge became the classic "Clay Machine Gun" V5 from sitting. This boulder also has a couple of other easier problems. Finally the jutting wing boulder 100m above this had its sheer right wall scaled by the weird dyno of "Tijuana Cha-Cha" V6.
On the roadside(well almost) Undercut boulder Jim Arnold climbed the surprisingly good "Ground Force". This traverses the sloping lip rightward from the base of the undercut arete on the right of the roadside face. The name refers to Tim Carruthers's fine effort in pulling a large annoying block from below the lip.
Finally, up on Kits Boulder, the Boxing Day snow wasn't enough to stop Greg Chapman extending the rail traverse. From the good hold on Nightrider (at the point you rock on to the face of the original problem) continue along the rail to the top of the boulder, this around a grade harder than the original problem.
 
28th November -
More superb winter conditions allowed Greg Chapman the opportunity to send the obvious rail traverse of Kits Boulder at Carrock Fell, starting sitting as for "Ghetto Style" and continuing leftward and up. This wraps up the last decent line on the block, and has been christened "Nightrider". Click here for a picture.
Staying with Carrock Fell, Jim Arnold reports climbing an excellent new problem on the top of the hillside above the Northern group of boulders. This little circuit (The Canada Boulders) was originally cleaned up by Jim's good friend Al Hewison who climbed a few good lines here before inlisting the help of Jim to send the obvious undercut arete from sitting to give the magnificent "Nova Scotia Arete".

21st November -
Recent information from Tim Carruthers, Jim Arnold, Kit Wilkinson, Trev Suddaby, Duncan Booth, Adam Hocking and Dan Varian (as well useful snippets from numerous others) have helped us unravel most of the complex history of climbing at Carrock Fell, and this information will be indispensable in the production of the forthcoming LakesBloc Carrock fell guide, and I would like to take this opportunity to thank all of the above for the info the have donated and any future pearls of wisdom they care to pass on.
On the climbing front yet more superb winter conditions over the weekend saw the South Lakes trio of Tom Burns, Neil Kershaw and Greg Chapman descend on Carrock fell for another voyage of discovery.
This lead to the cleaning and climbing of a number of probable new lines, the best of which was the strikingly obvious sit start to Kits Grooved arête, on Kits Boulder. Greg grabbed the send of this coveted prize in some truly icy conditions to leave us with "Ghetto Style".
A spot of backdated news for you now, which was left unreported while the history of the area was researched. A number of problems have been climbed on the Kirk Stone, which is the first large bouder reached from Mosedale. It turns out that the old skool gnarlers seemed unimpressed with this large block and left its plums un-plucked for another generation - thanks guys! Around five problems have been climbed, although the best of which are on the North face - The imaginatively but appropriately titled "Captain Kirk" climbs the wall left of centre from an obvious side-pull to a dynamic and committing finish, next up is "Buck Rogers" a slightly harder but more satisfying proposition. This goes to the right of centre from sitting off a good undercut with your right hand, then up to and obvious crimp with your left and again a dynamic move to a slot finishing in a more straight forward fashion to the left.

November 13th -
A crisp Saturday saw Neil Kershaw climb the impossibly blank looking undercut wall left of the classic V3/4 grooved wall, on the downhill face of Kits Boulder at Carrock fell. This brilliant problem is a truly Kershawesque line involving technical wizardry and an awesome awareness of balance. Neil has christened his new line Oh Come All Yee Faithful and given it the unlikely grade of V7!
UPDATE 23rd November: It would appear that Jim Arnold may well have climbed this problem before Neil.

November 6th -
Following up from his exploits at Carrock Fell Greg Chapman has added two new problems at Long Crag…
Longitude (V8) starts from sitting at problem 12 and traverses leftward into Long Wave.
Long Division (V9) climbs the slight crack line left of Beast of Burden via technical and hard moves.
Greg also made what is probably (judging by the amount of rocks moved and cleaning needed) the first ascent of a superb problem 30m down and right from Kits boulder at Carrock fell. Hi Karate (V8ish) climbs, from sitting, the barrel sided boulders down hill face, via two edges a slap to a sidepull sloper out right and then some tricky tension orientation before dynoing for the lip.
Click here for a picture.

1st November -
A beautiful autumn day saw Greg Chapman send the amazing and obvious bulging wall project on the small craglet located on the in the central higher tier of the Carrock fell boulders. This awesome line was just crying out for a send and the first decent conditions of the season allowed Chapman a weather window of opportunity which he grasped with both hands giving
"Punks Life". Subsequent information from Kit Wilkinson suggests that Duncan Booth has climbed a line on this face although on further inspection of the block in conjunction with Duncan's description it would seem likely that he climbed a slightly different problem.
Greg also made what is probably the second ascent of Neil Kershaw's excellent new V8 problem on the large boulder nearest the road at the far end of the boulder field. This problem climbs the hideous line sloping ledges through the small overlap and starts sitting to the right of small stream.

28th October -
John Gaskins reports climbing the central roof project on the Giant Stone at Little Font. John has been trying this line on and off for a while now, and felt the complete send was worthy of V14. Anyone who has seen this problem will be surprised to hear its not even harder!
John has also climbed the obvious low left to right traverse line on Plum Buttress at Warton Pinnacle crag. The problem starts below and left of Lone Tree Groove to finish up The Vine Line and goes at V11. The central section of the traverse comes close to a large tombstone like block on the floor although John says that with good body tension this does not effect the problem to much.
 
11th October -
A number of fine new problems have been climbed at two new venues located on the fells flanking Wrynose pass.
Long Crag - Situated on Wrynose Fell around 25 minutes from the road this awesome mini crag was discovered by Dave Birkett. It offers crimpy walls on the steep side of vertical above a beautiful grassy landing.
Grade range: V0 to V7 - Grid Reference: 282 039
Cold Pike Boulders - On the west slopes of Cold Pike also flanking Wrynose Pass these boulders are a 45 minute walk from the pass. They are set in an excellent situation looking out toward Eskdale and the Irish Sea and were originally discovered by Jonathan Lagoe. The harder problems (upto V8) are on the whole sit starts on the boulders, but the numerous walls in the area purvey many superb highball easier lines up to V4.
Grid Reference: 259 034
Keep posted for further details - Click here for a selection of images.

22nd September -
Dan Varian has just sent us full details of his new problems on the previously unclimbed boulder at the Peregrine boulders which themselves are situated at the base of Gouther crag Swindale.
This boulder was left relatively untouched by the first development teams due to its poor landings. Un put off by this Dan has put a lot of hard work in cleaning the lines, removing blocks and generally improving the drop zones. Neil Kershaw and Tom Burns on a recent scouting mission to the valley commented on the excellent job Dan had done on improving the appeal of this boulder!
 
There are in total six new lines on the boulder…
South Face
1: Poachers V2 - Follows the left lip until the top of Carpe Diem and rocks over.
2: One Hit Wonder V2 – (sit start) A short problem up a slight groove.
3: Black Rose V5 - (sit start) A really nice arête that's worth a
star or two.
 
East Face
1: Carpe Diem V9 -(sit start) An excellent looking problem that climbs the prow/bulge from sitting. (V5 From a low start)
2: Seam Stress V3 – (sit start) Follow the seam to the big jug in roof and rock up.
3: Nails looking project that I haven't payed much attention to but looks very hard from a sitter.
4 Hot off the Press V4 – (sit start) A nice straight up problem. **
 
Dan has also sent us some descriptive photo topos so we will update the current guide with more extensive details as soon as possible.
Click here for a picture of Carpe Diem

6th September -
Yesterday saw bushy haired pocket rocket Mark Katz upgrade his "Welsh raider" status to "Lancashire Legend" with his blistering second ascent of Isla de Encanta V13.
 
First climbed by John Gaskins in 1999 this explosive Trowbarrow testpiece has lain relatively untouched, despite an appearance in OTE magazine and on the bouldering video Stick It. Rumour has it that not even Tim Clifford could light the blue touchpaper on this one! Enter Mark Katz (via the M6)…
 
After a fair few successful visits to other crags in the area (see previous news reports), Mark found himself at Trowbarrow, primed and ready to add to his growing list of hard ticks. But The Enchanted Isle doesn't give up its secrets so easily, and its magic resisted our hero's initial attempts. Trip after long haul trip was dedicated to breaching the Isle's defences, and trip by trip they were gradually worn down. Third visit saw the crux move to the ledge go down – it was "on".
 
4th visit, £160 down on petrol, and full time work again the next day, Mark was in a mental pressure cooker – he had to get on the Isle! The day was muggy and warm; terrible conditions for holding the shoddy crux pinch. But it was now or never. First go, tips on the ledge. Second go, well over it – ohh! So close. Third go, no. Too greasy on the pinch. It was starting to slip away. Thin skin off the crimp. One more try. Got the pinch, good, OK. Throw for the ledge – hit it! Swing out……swing in…out…in, come on – yes, got the top! The screams of relief were heard for many miles around as Mark bopped with joy, atop his Enchanted Isle. Well done indeed.
Another Lakes loving Welsh raider is Chris Davies who has just grabbed the third ascent of the "Back-hand Roof" V11/12 at Crag X.
Click here for a picture Mark Katz on Isla De Encanta.

1st August -
Not to be out done by the recent second and third ascents of "Atomic Garden" (V11) at Heysham Head by Chris Davies and Dave Nodin, Greg Chapman screwed on his big arms and grabbed the fourth ascent of this fine problem. Greg opted of John Gaskins original sequence and not the new more dynamic method adopted by the welsh duo which Greg described as "nails"!

19th July -
Last Saturday saw strong Lancs youth Ryan Pasquill ascend the big project on the back of the Bowderstone. Ryan has touted the grade of V10, although this seems to be a little un-generous considering some of the attention the problem has received of late, including Chris Davies and Steve Dunning.
Click here for a picture of Ryan Pasquil in action on Four X.

14th July -
Despite the relativly poor weather for the time of year the Lakes has been buzzing with first ascents and hard repeats.
First up Mark Katz got the much coverted second ascent of Steve Dunnings Bowderstone test piece "Special Cases" (V12) commenting it to be one of the best problems he has ever done! Staying with the Bowderstone Chris "Floppy" Davies has been getting close on the big project to the far let of Special Cases... watch this space!
The weekend of July the 10th and 11th was that of the eagerly awaited Lakes bouldering meet which was a resounding success. The Saturday saw St. Bees Head enveloped by the masses and a number of fine repeats, including Neils Kershaws excellent arete problem "Yellow Desert Screaming" by Jordan Buys and John Fullwood who found some slighty more efficient beta but still felt the overall grade right at V8+. On Boulder 1. John Cookes NEW problem "Undercooke" saw around ten repeats, again more efficient beta was found and the problem was reduced in grade from a mighty V9/10 to V6! Despite this the problem is superb and everyone agreed this to be a fine line and a worthy tick.
The North Wales crew thinking the weather to be poor in the North Lakes headed for Crag X in the South Lakes and this resulted in Mark Katz (fresh from his Bowderstone success) repeat John Gaskins hideous but awesome "Back-Hand Roof" V11/12 and also Chris Doyle link Hybrid Moments into the extended finish climbed earlier this month by Greg Chapman.
Sunday was split in two by a morning visit to the Stirrup Boulders in Wasdale and an afternnons session on the Bowderstone. At the Stirrup boulders Jordan Buys climbed the right cave prow project on the Sheep Pen boulders giving a super looking V6/7, further up the hill Tom Burns climbed the wall/prow, left of "The Confabulator", to give "No Sheffield Walk-In", a reachy V7/8.
Finally, earlier in the week at the Sampson's Stones Eskdale, Neil Kershaw climbed the central wall project on the Asteroid boulder from standing to leave a fine new V8. Neil commented that this would make an interesting and difficult proposition from sitting.
Click here for a picture of Jordan on his new problem.

7th July -
Chris Davies and Dave Noden payed the South Lakes a visit and left with a good haul of ascents Chris reports...
"Nodder (Dave Noden) and myself had a rather good day out in Gaskins country yesterday (5/7/04).Atomic Garden (V11) has now had a second ascent, followed by a third ascent from David Noden, who also sent the Beauty of Being Crucified (V9) and Nice one Dave sit start (V10) at Woodwell. Also at Woodwell I did I think the 2nd ascent of Crucifix Kiss, feet off variation (V11) - Nice one Jon G awesome problems, and the weather was lush!"
SOURCE - UKBouldering.com
27th June -
At the South Lakes newest Crag X (if your in the know you'll know where I mean!) Greg Chapman has extended the superb "Blood Sugar Sex Magic". The new finish continues along the lip from the good finger edge at the point where the original problem goes up to meet the break, and adds around six more fingery and powerful moves which in their own right warrent around V6/7. This makes the full link a fair bit harder at somewhere in the region of V10. Next up someone needs to link this into Hybrid Moments, any takers?

June 7th -
A nice afternoons sport in Eskdale resulted in the cleaning up of a smart little circuit of problems on the banks of the river Esk, 20 minutes walk from the road.
The Heron Stones will be known to many a trad climber as a useful warm up before tackling the delights of Heron Crag, in a similar way the Sampson's Stones are used on an excursion to Esk buttress. Despite this they have not before been specifically "bouldered" on to any extent.
After climbing a number of good little lines which had obviously been done before, some of the boggy landings were sorted out in a patio fashion using lovely large water worn pebbles, this opened a few more lines - Riverside Wall V5, Heronesk V7/8 and Ardea Cinera V7, which is a superb left to right traverse of the riverside face of the main block, all new problems - F.A. Greg Chapman. There is in total around 15 problems all with good landings although I must point out this is a slightly esoteric venue and would be best combined with a walk or a trip to Heron Crag, there is a topo guide in the pipeline.

4th June -
John Gaskins has repeated Si O'Conors Kentmere test piece Little Women RH, which was originally given V14. This problem has been the subject of a fair bit of confussion of late, revolving round where the line actually goes. LakesBloc editor Greg Chapman recieved a beta description from Si although it was some what hard to understand. Both John and Greg had assumed the line had started at "Reinvented Bright New Colour" (the central V12) and moved left on lay-ways into the original "Little Women" problem, which is the most obvious line through this section of rock. This was the way John eventually climbed the line commenting that Si's description did seem a little contrived, he felt his method was in the region of V13 which would still make it the hardest problem in the central Lakes.

28th May -
Jim Arnold reports some quality new additions to "The Valley of the Kings" Kentmere... Al Hewison cleaned and climbed two good V0 problems either side of the left hand prow on boulder 6. Both Jim and Al also climbed a brilliant obvious low level traverse of the Patio boulder, starting at problem 1 and finishing up problem 7, giving "Noggin the Nogg" V7.
 
Tom Burns and Greg Chapman have finished the preliminary developments to some new boulders in Wasdale, "The Stirrup Boulders" are located on the North east slopes of Yewbarrow fell in a highly panoramic setting. There are around 30 new problems from V0 to V8 with a few notable projects still to go, click here for access to the brand new topo. The best of the new problems include "Riding an Ethnic Sheep" V3 (FA Tom Burns), "Beginners Bass line" V3 (FA Greg Chapman), "Rag Bollock Roof" V4 (FA Greg Chapman), "Chinese Whispers" V4 (FA Tom Burns), Bill Board of Opportunity V7 (FA Tom Burns), "Ten Mighty Wee Guns" V7 (FA Greg Chapman) and "The Confabulator" V8 (FA Greg Chapman).

24th May -
It would appear that Ian Vickers did repeat Transgenic a year or two back so Greg's send would actually have been the third ascent. Oh well, still a worthy achievment!
 
13th May -
You Beauty!!" That must of shaken up a few dog walkers when it reverberated around Hyning Wood at about 7pm last night. No it wasn't a passing Jim Bowen recieving a phone call telling him bullseye had been re-sheduled, but the victory cry given by Greg Chapman as he landed the finishing jug on John Gaskins limestone masterpiece "Transgenic".
Few of you will have ever seen this fantastic wave of undercut limestone never mind tried it, but all I can say is your missing out! Situated 50m off the Warton to Yealand road in the confines of Hyning Wood this awesome piece of climbing has waited five years for a second ascent. Rumour has it that Ian Vickers has tried the line but as no more was heard, one can only presume it was but a flying visit and the link was not attained. Both Neil Kershaw (who came pretty close last year) and Greg have played on the line a number of times over the last few years but to no avail, until now that is. Although similar in apearance to its harder Woodwell sibling "Anesthesia", the moves on Transgenic are much more varied and with holds ranging from wacky sloping open handers to minute crimpers it truly is amazing. Below John Gaskins moving from the slopers to the two (and only) good holds of "Transgenic" V11...

12th May -
Dan Varian reports he has climbed the obvious right to left lip traverse on the main bloc at the newly developed Peregrine boulders, situated below Gouther crag. Incidentally Stephen Reid of the FRCC has asked if I would report that climbers kindly keep away from these boulders between March and the end of June to prevent access problems which may be caused by aggravating the nesting Peregines, I will of course be adding this to the topo post haste, there are currently no access problems with Truss Buttress boulders. Now back to the news...
Name: Carlisle Slappers - "Easily 3 stars for the line alone!"
Grade: V9, This is obviously subject to a second ascent and cleaning.
Dan gives the beta: "I started as low as seemed possible with one hand on a sloper right at the bottom of the lip and one on a half decent crimp, from here cross through to another crimp on the lip then span out to a pinch just below it and bring your right hand upto a sloper/pinch. Then a few slaps along the sloping lip gets you too the jug on Matts Roof (good rest) from here gaston with left to a high small crimp with right, then span out to a crap crimp/seam and bring your right hand into a pinch now slap for the hanging arete at its base, match this then slap up sloping holds to an awesome finishing jug. The footholds for the left foot are obvious as there aren't many and the right leg just heel hooks all the way". Click here for a picture Dan Varian on his new problem "Carlisle Slappers".

11th May -
Some unfortunate news on the access front from Mick Johnston...
"Climbing at Longridge has been banned . We were denied access on Sunday by a site man who is permanently in situ . He was very reasonable and only carrying out his job although he was vague about the landowners intentions . He mentioned trying to sell the crag to the BMC !! and cited public liability for the halt on climbing . I don't know the truth of the matter or the BMC position but the likelyhood of losing this place looks very real" .
 
25th April -
Neil Kershaw has just sent the obvious highball arete project at St. Bees head, i.e. The first good line reached at Apiary Wall when approaching from the North. "Yellow Desert Scream" V8+, ranks along side "Lateral Mindset" (another awesome new addition to the crag) as one of the best new problems anywhere in the country! See here for a picture.

14th April -
Superb new bouldering circuit has been worked out at Gouther Crag, see the new topo guide for details - Gouther Crag
 
31st March -
A glorious sunny day was just what the doctor ordered when the North Wales boys (and girl) descended on the awesome coastal venue of St. Bees head, for a day of sandstone delights. St. Bees is set to feature in a forthcoming "Stone Circles" article in Climber magazine, so armed with photographic legend Ray Wood, bouldering guru Simon Panton and crag regular Greg Chapman, to name but a few, the team set set to work climbing many of the crag classics while Ray worked his magic.
If you have visited the crag before you will have no doubt noticed, as I have, the awesome blank (looking) wall between "The Fishermans Dyno" and "Hueco Crack" on the largest boulder at the Fishermans Steps South sector. Inspired by the general ambiance of the day Greg had a more detailed look at this beautiful line and noticed a reasonable hold about 10 to 12 feet off the ground. Unperturbed by the lack of a hold to reach this he opted for a running spring board method using the tiniest of smears as a facilitator. After a few practise runs (literally) and cartoon style splats the hold was attained which left only the 5 foot dyno to a blind hold the top of the block, this was fortunately (through pure luck) flashed and the problem ascended leaving St.Bees and the Lakes with "Lateral Mindset" (V8+), one of the most awe inspiring boulder problems to date, and there's a few now!
 
12th March -
A couple of sessions in the Honister Pass have lead to the re-opening up of another good boulder in the valley.
According to Keswick corespondent and local history guru Trev Suddaby these boulders were originally opened up around 5 years ago by Ian Turnbull and Duncan Booth, where they climbed all the easier problems and an excellent hard traverse of the caves lip. These are high quality problems and after being re-cleaned are worthy of a visit.
The "High Rock" sits on a scree slope on the SW side of the valley about 500m past the road side boulders, and around a 5 minute walk up the hillside. There are in fact two boulders, although the higher of the two is where the best and hardest problems are to be found.
The "High Rock" harder problems...
Ian's Lip - Start at the far left of the cave on a shelf, now traverse rightward into a sloping lip and into the last two thirds of Occam's Razor, awesome! (FA Ian Turnbull 1999)
Fallen Idol V7 - Start on the far right of the cave lip, on a big shelf, traverse left into the sloping lip, a tricky rock up now allows access onto the headwall slab.
Occam's Razor V9 - Starting in the center of the cave/roof, pull up to the lip via a wierd crimp and good side-pull, without the blocks for feet. Get both hands on the lip (hard) now traverse left to where a difficult dyno/slap up and left allows access to the headwall slab.
V4 - Start left of where the previous problem finishes. From a good undercut and crozzly crimp go up and right to a good hold, finish direct. (FA Ian Turnbull 1999)
There are around another six easier problems on this boulder and the one below which were all climbed by Ian and Duncan back in 1999. We have produced a topo which can be used in conjunction with the topo already on the Topo's Page, for a copy put in a request via the Contact Page.

28th February -
John Gaskins has added a sit start to Greg Chapmans new problem "Traci Lords" (V10) at the Tilberthwaite Lad Stones.
This starts to the right in a bit of a cave, a few extra hard moves allows access into the original problem. John felt this waranted V12.

21st February -
The recent good spell of weather has lead to plenty of action.
First up well traveled Lancashire duo Gaz Parry and Ian Vickers visited Kentmere and despatched most of the best problems at the Garburn Pass boulder aswell as grabbing a couple of first ascents...
"On The Skunt" V8 - Climbs project 10 on the topo from sitting. F.A. Ian Vickers
Gaz managed to re-climb Paradigm minus it's missing hold at V9ish, Gaz explains his sequence - "Broken hold left hand as a shoulder with the right hand on an undercut, now right hand to cristally crack then (as on the original problem) a big move with your left hand to the small crimp and go again to the lip."
Next up John Gaskins has climbed the sit start proper to "Subliminal" at Heysham Head commenting that it does not add a great deal of difficulty to the original low start V9, which is still the crux. John has also named his awesome new problem at Thorn Crag "Return of the Fly" (V9/10). This problem is described as "Johns Wall" on the topo and in the March edition of Climber magazine.
Finally, remember a few months back when we told you about a certain five star project at the Tilberthwaite Lad Stones? Well sorry its no longer a project! Greg Chapman, armed with the knowledge that John Gaskins had been for a look, pulled his finger out and climbed the line from standing to give
Traci Lords hard V10. This superb line climbs project 4 listed on the topo i.e. The tilted wall in a small bay from opposing gaston edges upto a pinchy crimp then a big move to a reasonable hold out left, now sort your feet and go again with your left to a better hold match and slap up for the jug on the top-out ledge.
This is probably the best pure hard problem in the Lakes!
Greg also climbed the sit start project to the V1 arete on the Tilted Boulder at around V7 which is also very good if a little abrasive.

18th February - NEWS FLASH
John Gaskins Reports:
Last Friday I did the line out of the 'cave' on the boulder at Trowbarrow which I've tried on and off for a number of years.
Low sit start with both hands 'in' the obvious edge, out to an intermediate edge/layaway then go again to obviously small edge/pinch followed by a (very) hard move to the good layaway/edge from which you can get the lip with your left. Once matched on the lip it seems most logical to reach rightwards along the lip to the jug on the 'original V8' then rock round onto the slab.
Name - "Il Pirata".
Grade!!?? Undecided but I think that it is maybe V15.
Most of the climbing (i.e. the last 9 moves) is pretty reasonable. In total it's 13 moves to get stood up on the slab, the first 2 moves are quite hard/powerful but the third move!!?? My success rate on it is under 1%!! The fourth move is tricky but 'easier'.
- More news and photos to follow -

16th February - A good weekend weather wise lead to some action at St.Bees... As well as the grand day had by all some excellent problems where rediscovered directly behind the South sector of the Fishermans Steps - I say rediscovered as although these are not on the topos available it is almost certain that at least some of the problems will have been climbed before - the problems are on the walls between the main cliff and the boulders, just right of the recent rock fall... The first line is the striking arete finishing at the break which is good value at V2, next is the appealing wall with pockets 1m to the right which again finishes at the break and is around V2/3. The next problems are on a superb little wall 20m right again, which has an obvious break at chest height. The crack on the left is V0 and the blank wall to the right using the break dynamically to the top is V5ish and very good!
Greg Chapman also repeated "Tender Hooks", Dan Varians excellent new problem (see below) confirming the grade at V8+.
 
17th January - A good session at Thorn Crag led to the first ascent of an excellent new traverse on the Paradise Boulder. Red Rose Addict (V6) Starts on the far left of the main face then traverses the sloppy lip rightwards into the obvious groove and up, first ascent Greg Chapman.