16th December -
Eskdale granite guru Phil Wake, has updated his site lakesbouldering.co.uk to now include a movie of his three star classic Ft7a+/V7, Impailed, at Dove crag, and also documented the problems on the Wasdale Overbeck boulder. Which was originally developed by Ian Turnbull and co.
 
22nd November -
More icy crisp winter conditions gave south Lakes technical guru Neil Kershaw the perfect weather window for a spicy session at the Gillercombe boulders. Whilst there Neil climbed three excellent new problems, as well as grabbing a much coveted ascent of the three star classic Ian/Leo's Arête (Ft7b/V8).
 
The new problems were thus: The superb (if a little dirty) vague arête on the largest southerly boulder, Ft6c+/V5. The hanging groove on the largest block nearest the crag, starting sitting in a small cave, Ft7a/V6. Finally the eye catching eastern face of the boulder between the previous two blocks described, this goes at Ft7a/V6 see image below.

14th November -
Following almost three weeks of unrelenting wet weather the Lakes was at last given some respite in the shape of a gloriously crisp autumnal Sunday. Of course after such dismal weather finding a venue with not only dry rock but also landings not looking akin to those of a mangrove swamp can prove al little taxing. Step forward Sampson's (mighty) Stones! The elevated status and well ventilated position of these imperfect orbs seems a perfect formula for an instant fix after a prolonged monsoon-like spell. And so it was that Nick Davey and Greg Chapman went forth and indulged in some vintage bloc sport. After that sort of build I suspect you're thinking "they better have done something worthwhile!" The initial remit was to check some route descriptions, grades and missing links for the forthcoming North West bouldering guide, all of which were done with gusto, although more importantly (from a news point of view at least) a classic line was straightened out and improved. The problem in question was Axions which under its original guise, finished out right on an impeccably rough slopping flatty before rocking to victory. For the new direct version you climb as for the original problem but on reaching the highest good edge with your right hand step high left onto a cleaned edge, now move your left hand into a small niche'd side-pull before making a dynamic lunge for the top of the block. Due to it's slightly morpho start moves the original problem weighed in at Ft7a+/b (V7/8) so its seems appropriate that Axions Boogaloo (the new direct version) would be in the Ft7b/+ (V8/+) ballpark, from standing the finishing lunge makes an entertaining V6/Ft6c+ in it's own right.
 
17th October –
The first piece of news to report is slightly backdated but well worth the wait! In Trowbarrow Quarry John Gaskins has climbed a super super direct start to the classic V.S cracked wall route Coral Sea. Start in the centre of the slab left of Coral Sea and follow holds trending slightly rightwards to an obvious layaway. From this step back left to poor holds in the centre of the slab and make a tricky move to reach good edges just below Coral Sea Direct. Reach up to Coral Sea Direct and either reverse it or Coral Sea, or top out (V10/Fnt7c+ish).
 
Next up, Greg Chapman has been beavering away on the high hillside at Carrock Fell and come away with three good new problems. The first of these (Queequeg's Coffin) is located on the Whale Boulder and traverses the lip (facing Mungrisdale) from right to left and finishes via a tricky rock/mantle on to the slabby top. The problem was climbed from sitting (V5/Fnt6c+ish), although due to the uneven landing below the start it is a much pleasanter problem if started from low rather than actually sitting, this goes at V3/Fnt6b. On the same block 2.5m right of Hi Karate the slightly inclined wall was despatched from sitting using a very thin diagonally left trending clack, two poor crimps and finishing with a barndoory slap to gain the top to leave Monstro V8+/Fnt7b+ Greg thought it was the second hardest problem he had climbed at Carrock, commenting that only Nightrider (V10) involved more precision! Monstro image 1 - Monstro image 2.
The third problem is located on a block in a dip behind the green boulder with a high knife like arête, 30m diagonally up and left from Kits Boulder. This line climbs the 4m downhill face from sitting. Starting on the right pull on and trend left before finishing direct - Absinth Makes The Heart Glow Stronger V6/Fnt7a.

19th September -
Chris Davies reports repeating the reverse of Aeon at Fairy Steps, Chris commented that he felt it was harder than the original left to right version of the traverse and in the V10/11 Ball Park. This would be the second (or possibly third - Ian Vickers may have climbed it back in the late nineties) ascent of this hidden gem. Chris is apparently fully psyched to grab the full there and back tick (Aeons) which he feels would still warrant the V12/13 grade originally given by first ascentionist John Gaskins.
 
In the central Lakes a new and easily accessible area has been opened up at the foot of Wrynose pass, just west of Blea tarn. The Blake Rigg boulders consist of two superbly solid blocks either side of the track which runs below the broken escarpments of Blake Rigg crag. So far 16 problems have been climbed from V0 to V8, although most are in the V0 to V3 range. For the really keen there is a number of other more esoteric blocks a steep walk up the hillside directly below the crag, no problems have been recorded on these and despite the steep walk-in there looks like they may offer a few good new lines.

5th September -
After a recent memory jogger from Mark Redmayne we thought it was about time we spent a session seeing what the Simon Stone (Swindale) had to offer, and we were pleasantly surprised.
This angular block, partially shaded by two ancient trees, has a mysterious air and would certainly not look out of place in a Lord of the Rings movie. Situated on grassy knoll at the head of the valley it gets plenty of sun and has good flat landings, okay so there's only 10 problems and it is a 2.5km (flat) walk-in, but combined with a walk, run or mountain biking session it would make an excellent extended lunch stop. Click here for an overview topo.

3rd September –
After a couple of short – skin tearing – sessions at Carrock Fell Greg Chapman has climbed a superb new problem situated on the 6m high slightly overhanging wall located 250m up the hill from the Northern Group. The wall is climbed via a tenuous sequence of crimpy technical moves to an obvious ramp and pleasant finish. A sit start seems possible but would be a more attractive proposition in winter conditions. Due to the particularly humid summer conditions Greg snatched (literally!) the first ascent at around 7.30am, which involved a 6am from the south Lakes!
The problem is called Leopold Von Buch and is thought to be around the V8/+ mark, although cooler conditions could unlock an easier sequence.

22nd August -
Phil Wake has climbed the eye catching highball arête below Dove Crag (Grid Ref. 376 109). The line has been graded V7, been christened Impailed and is reportedly one of the best problems in the Lake District!
Source Climb Online

6th August -
John Gaskins reports a significant ascent at Fairy Steps, which he climbed within the last few weeks. Johns new line traverses the Walk Away wall, which itself is at the far left hand end of the upper left tier, the problem starts at Rigger and traverses leftwards to finish up the crack of Intellect. No name as yet but the grade of V11/12 has been offered by John.
 
4th July -
Gaz Parry reports that Lancashire's own climbing weasel - Ian Vickers, has made what is the fourth ascent of John Gaskins' mega link of Toms Buttress at Woodwell - Cloning Technology. Ian confirmed the already re-assessed grade of V12, which had been offered by the problems only other ascenders Neil Kershaw and Greg Chapman.
 
At Crag X Greg Chapman bagged yet another new problem, this time on Cave Buttress. The new line starts as for Hybrid Moments but where this reverses Angel Deelite continue leftward across the lip of the buttress via some thin edges and an interesting bridging move to allow access to the finish of Superstar DJ, this goes at V8+ish.
 
25th June -
A flying visit from the Welsh raiding dream team of Chris Davies and Dave Noden saw the pair claim a coupl of worthy repeats. First up Dave grabbed a quick ascent of the now well trodden classic Hybrid Moments (V10) at Crag X. Following this the pair sauntered over to Fairy Steps, where Chris sent what is probably the third repeat of Aeon (V10).
Below is a picture of first ascentionist John Gaskins on an early repeat of his own Fairy Steps master-work Aeon V10.

15th June -
Greg Chapman reports climbing a probable new line at St Bees Head;
Primate Principals (V7ish) climbs the steep roof in the cave to the rear of the Fishermans Dyno block. Starting two meters rights of the base of Tims Crack pull on via an under cut slot with the LH and a slopey pocket with the RH. Follow the line of pockets and burley sidepulls to an obvious finishing jug at the back of the roof. Click the following links for a couple of images,
Image 1 + Image 2
 
June 6th –
Continuing his unrelenting enthusiasm for the crag, Greg Chapman has forced yet another new line at Crag X.
His new problem is located on Wolf Buttress (the first buttress encountered when approaching from the road) and starts, from sitting, on the shelf at the back of the roof on the far left. From here traverse the break rightward until a spike like hold is reached with the right hand; now move up into two apposing side-pulls. Accuracy is now the word of choice as the following moves, to a sloper and then a hidden two/three finger niched edge, are hard, powerful and calculated. If you are successful in making it this far, continue back leftward along the top lip of the buttress finishing at the base of a large yew tree. Click here for an image of Prohibition Exhibition V9/10 - Probably V9 in cold conditions.
 
28th May –
At Crag X, in the South Lakes, Greg Chapman has climbed the obvious bulge project between Alien Head and the finishing groove of Danny's Lip. The problem starts sitting from a reasonable (if a bit slopey) hold with the left hand, and an obvious small tilted crimp with your right. Pull on and slap out right to small positive hold on the lip, now surmount the bulge via (amongst other moves) a calculated snatch for the cleaned one-pad nubbins, a sharp crimp and a balancy rock-over, finish at the vague break - Embargo V8+.
 
Greg also managed a tricky link of Danny's Lip into his new problem, reckoning it to be a fair bit harder than the original version of DL but still in the V9 bracket.

17th May -
After seeing the recent activities in the Wrynose Pass area of the Lakes, Martin Dale recalled a few nice sounding problems in the area which he did back in July 2003! Martin gives the low down - "Boulder 1. GR:275026. Park at the very top of Wrynose and walk towards Cockley Beck. As soon as the tarmac starts going downhill strike off diagonally up the hill to the left. Two boulders will come into view in about a minute. Both have striking aretes. The lefthand overhanging one is "Wry Nose" V1 from standing, V3 sit start. It's a really superb classic problem with a hard reach/dyno start from sitting off the obvious hold, then quality yarding up to the top on good holds. The right hand arete is V2 from a sit start on it's left side off the fairly obvious finger edge and passing the strange bulbous lump on the way. To the right is a steep slab with two further problems, lefthand slab, V2, and righthand V1, both from standing.
Boulder 2, "Wrynose Dubs". GR:264024
Drive down Wrynose Pass towards Cockley Beck. Park near where a footpath sign and a stile appears on the right side of the road. Cross the stream and follow the footpath to below the obvious boulder up to the right, a couple of mins from the road. Problems described from left to right: 1. The Left Edge. V0. Follow the left edge of the front face from just left of the steepness. 2. sit start just to the right on the front face, fingers in a couple of slots, make a fierce pull for a better slot then rightwards to a slopey finish. V3. The main line just right again is unclimbed but dirty. More potential problems further right before the right arete of the steep front face: this is: "Dub Wah" V4, maybe just V5? from a sit start, V3 from standing. Start with fingers in small slots, feet under the bulge. Climb the arete mostly on it's right side with a swing round to the left side to finish. Beware, tricky pull over. This is a classic problem. Further right again up the slope lies
"The Back Passage" V5. Start sat down in an obvious niche. A good flat hold is used with a contorted egyptian to latch some fiercely painful micro edges and then up to the capping roof. There is potential here for more stuff, link ups etc"
 
On Red Wall at Trowbarrow Quarry, human clothes prop Tom Burns used his massive frame to span the huge distance between the short break and the sloping shelf in the Nicks Problem area of the crag giving the eliminate but obvious 6 foot Sicks V9.

April 11th -
First up Tim Carruthers reports a new problem at Carrock Fell...
"A nice little addition to the repertoire on the leaning block immediately up and left of the Purple Slab and behind the hawthorn tree. Name: 47. Sit start, feet under the roof of the cave, burly move up to catch and match the sloping ramp, up again to a sloping side pull pod style affair high on the left, then a crimp and the top. About V5, 6b".
At Trowbarrow Quarry Tom Burns has climbed the rising lip traverse (from low) on the East face of the Shelter Stone. After a bit of investigation on Toms part it seams this line has not been climbed before - although we havn't asked Mr. Gaskins yet. Tom opted for a grade of V7 and has named the problem Regular John. This problem has since been extended from a lying down (1m to the left) start making it a little trickier.
 
March 24th -
Mike Adams reports climbing a couple of obvious projects at Thorn Crag.
At the Crag Boulders Mike climbed the eliminate bulging wall project, left of Burnt Heather, to give the aptly named Fire Wall V8. From a number of prior attemps at this problem we suspect a long reach is a must at this grade...excuses excuses.
Just round the corner Mike traversed the main face in the cove left to right, linking the the start of Easy Karma into Fix My Sink this goes at V8+ish.

13th March –
A clear crisp winters day lead the way for a superb session at the Sampson's Stones in Eskdale. On the Cosmos boulder Greg Chapman climbed the obvious bulging line to the right of the established classic Axions, giving Light of Other Days, V6/8 depending where you start and how long your arms are. To the rear of the boulder is an obvious and striking wall in a cavernous pit – described as a project on the current topo. Greg put the possibility of a miscalculation on the last move to the back of his mind and sent the problem to give a very committing but rewarding V8. Click here for a photo.
 
On the Bowderstone, Gaz Parry repeated Adam Hocking's new(ish) problem starting as for Picnic Sarcastic then traversing right into Impropa Opera. Gaz and Jamie Cassidy also repeated the V11 sitting start to Impropa Opera.

9th March -
The dynamic duo that is Gaz Parry and Ian Vickers have been rewarded by two hard sessions on the Bowderstone with an ascent a piece of Steve Dunnings excellent Special Cases V12 on the rear of the cobble. This will be - after Mark Katz's ascent - the third and fourth ascents of this burley and technical roof masterclass.
 
At Carrock Fell Dan Varian climbed a new line in the Punks Life Area, Dan gives the beta - "The problems is to the right of Punks Life, round the corner. Unfortunately it was a little wet the day I did the problem, in drier weather a more logical start could be done coming in from the right. The problem starts on two tiny crimps , a hard starting move to slap for a large flat hold, this move is alot harder than the rest of the problem and will be best forgotten once the right hand start has been done. From the large hold you then follow big moves off large sidepulls at the top, it felt around V7 ." Dan has named the problem Da Funk and erged me to mention that the RH version will make an excellent problem.
 
5th March -
Whilst on a recent visit to Carrock Fell, Adam Hocking and Neil Kershaw added a few fine new lines. On the Punks Life boulder Hock added an excellent traverse into Punks Life, Neil gives the low down – "Start just left of the boulder (the one you use to start Punk's Life), hanging on two low crimps. Slap wildly out right to a good flat hold above the boulder. Match this, drop into the Punk's Life sloper, get your heel by your hand on the flatty, and now gain the break. A couple of snatches on small crimps gains the P.L jug and success. F**king powerful all the way! My guess is V8". Neil climbed the obvious groove right of Sing A Rainbow on the Mile High Wall – "Standing start (a sitter would be pointless), get stood on the good ledge. Extremely bizarre acrobatics might get you past unhelpful holds to eventually swing onto the jugs at the end of S.A.R, top out as for this, "I Can, I Can't" V5". On Kits Boulder Hock then climbed the grooved arête from low on the right – "Hanging start on the good finger jug, get a terrible pinch for the left hand, smear your feet, now backhand the groove high up (very burly, crux). Press out into a layback and cruise to victory.
March 23rd Addition - Hock has come up with goods - The traverse into Punks Life is Generation X (V8) and the RH sitter to Kits Grooved Arete is Losing My Feathers which also goes at V8.
 
At Thorn Crag Greg Chapman ended five hard sessions and a couple of months of concerted effort on the training board with the much-coveted (well by himself anyway!) second ascent of the blank bulge that is Endangered Species V11.

17th February -
John Gaskins reports climbing the Lean-To project on the Lean-To boulder at Carrock Fell. Its about time this excellent line was climbed, John reckoned V8, no name as yet. Dan Varian has repeated and confirmed the grade of this new line.
 
29th January -
Keswick strong man Adam Hocking put his Welsh adventure on hold for a few days and made return visit to his old stomping ground, the Bowderstone. He set to work freeing a huge link starting as for The Bowels and following this Into the Light then reverse On The Rebound into Birketts Circuit to finish, at a whopping V11! Hock also climbed another hard link from the start of Picnic Sarcastic and traversing into Impropa Opera and finishing up this. Although impressive in its own right, this more importantly opens up the possabilty of a full traverse of the main face.
 
24th January -
A couple of first ascents as a result of Sundays fine weather...
First up, at Carrock Fell Tim Carruthers reports climbing the sit start arete (marked as a project in the new guide) on the right side of the Purple Slab from low but not sitting, giving TC's Arete V6. Tim thinks the sitter will still definitely go.
At Thorn Crag, Greg Chapman climbed the obvious but hidden arete 25m up and right from the old skool highball Aardvarks Don't Dyno on the Lower Tier of the main crag, leaving Squirreling Dervishes V7. Picture
 
22nd January –
After a tip off from seasoned campaigner Jim Arnold, Greg Chapman and Neil Kershaw went to check out the boulder-field below Raven Crag, Threshthwaite Cove (GR 423113). Jim and company had noticed the potential of the area whilst pioneering some new routes on the crag, and despite climbing a few problems, the most promising looking boulder – well hidden on the western slopes of Pasture Beck gorge – remained, on the whole, virgin ground. On their first visit Greg and Neil encountered some horrendously wet and windy weather, which put pay to their grand aspirations. A couple of weeks later Greg returned in much finer (and colder!) conditions and set to work on the large and instantly impressive "Rolling Rock Boulder". This large block is around 16 feet high and is named after the incident where the one-ton block, which was sat below the obvious and outstanding arête (Jungle Hobo), was rolled down the hill, thus improving the standing start and opening up the sitter.
There are eight problems to date with the prospect of a hard sitter to the arête and a thin traverse across the main face, there is also around fifteen problems still to do on the other boulders in the area. Click here for further details.